Pappy Van Winkle

Price: $220 Issue: Summer 2009 Reviewer: John Hansell

My review of this whiskey a few years back indicated that it was too woody and past its prime to be a great whiskey. This one is better. (Yes, bottlings do change.) There's more balance, and the oak is in check. It's still big and brooding, with notes of toffee, roasted nuts, dried spice (cinnamon, rosemary, evergreen needles), candied fruit, cocoa, and polished oak. Tobacco and toffee on the finish, with lingering dried spices, and there's a nice foundation of sweetness to balance all the oak and spice.