Smoke Beyond Scotland: These World Whiskies Are Made With Scottish Peat
September 17, 2019 –––––– Susannah Skiver Barton
Until the mid-20th century, it was taken for granted that all scotch included some peat. After all, peat was the country's main fuel source for thousands of years, and the flavor became entwined and admired in many styles of Scotch whisky. Perhaps surprisingly, Scotland has only 0.3% of all the peat on earth—and yet the flavor and success of peated Scotch whisky has spawned admirers around the world who are eager to give their own whiskies the pungent, powerful character of Scottish peat. These distillers introduce peat in a variety of ways: by blending peated spirit from Scotland with their own whisky, distilling with imported barley that was malted and peated in Scotland, or finishing local whisky in casks that previously held peated scotch.
A few, like Paul John Distillery in Goa, India, even go to the trouble of importing actual peat from Scotland. Paul John imports bricks of peat from Islay and the Highlands and then uses it to dry locally grown six-row barley. The peated grain is used to create Paul John's range of peated single malts, including Edited, Bold, and Peated Select Cask. “Six-row barley contains a high amount of husk,” master distiller Michael D'Souza explains. “You tend to get a higher amount of phenols, because ultimately, when you kiln [barley], the husk is what absorbs the smoky character.” D'Souza prizes Scottish peat for its range of flavors, which vary depending on its source. “Islay peat has a lot of medicinal character—it's sharp and intense, whereas Highland peat is mellower and softer,” he says. “These are two different characteristics, so ultimately I peat the barley differently. It is processed separately and matured separately.”
Whatever method a distillery uses to add a dose of peat, the impact is unmistakable. Even in small amounts, peat makes itself known by delivering smoky, ashy, tarry, and medicinal flavors. Its isn't limited to single malt or scotch-style blends, either; in the U.S., some craft distillers have added peated malt to the mashbills of their bourbons.
From Scotland, With Love: World Whiskies Made with Scottish Peat
England
The English Smoky Single Malt—88 points, $75
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Dark chocolate, cigars, apple-ginger cake
Wales
Penderyn Celt Single Malt—91 points, $50
Method: Finished in Islay whisky quarter casks
Tastes like: Glazed pork ribs with salted plums
Ireland
Connemara Single Malt—87 points, $55
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Spiced lemon-ginger tea and earthy chocolate
Sweden
Spirit of Hven Tycho's Star Single Malt—87 points, $132
Method: Imported Islay peat, Swedish peat, and seaweed
Tastes like: Grilled apples and sausage, salty seaweed snacks
France
Armorik Triagoz Single Malt—89 points, $75
Method: Imported peat
Tastes like: Malted cereal with fresh fruit, savory cooked mushrooms
Glann ar Mor Roc'h Hir Single Malt—91 points, $150
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Rubber and ash, charred pineapple, vanilla-iced sugar cookie
Rozelieures Peated Collection Single Malt—90 points, $70
Method: Imported peat
Tastes like: Clove-studded orange, bittersweet chocolate, black pepper
India
Amrut Peated Single Malt—90 points, $73
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Peppery charcoal-roasted chicken with mango pickle
Paul John Peated Select Cask Single Malt—88 points, $95
Method: Imported Islay and Highlands peat
Tastes like: Grilled pineapple and salted caramels
Japan
Hakushu 12 year old Single Malt—91 points, $180
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Moss, grilled pineapple, roasted sunflower seeds
Yoichi Single Malt—92 points, $80
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Crushed oyster shells, semi-sweet chocolate, cigar wrapper
Yamazaki 12 year old Single Malt—93 points, $85
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Lime zest, plum skins, pouch tobacco
Ohishi Islay Cask Finish Rice Whisky (2017 Release)—91 points, $90
Method: Finished in Islay whisky casks
Tastes like: Clay oven-baked chicken with fresh cantaloupe (pre-release sample)
United States
Berkshire Smoke & Peat Bourbon—88 points, $60
Method: Finished in Islay whisky casks
Tastes like: Menthol cigarettes and coriander seeds
High West Campfire Whiskey—90 points, $70
Method: Peated blended malt whisky from the Highlands blended with bourbon and rye
Tastes like: Charred marshmallow s'mores with a side of fruit salad
Kings County Peated Bourbon—85 points, $40 (375ml)
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Charred corn, burnt sugar, and dark chocolate
Liberty Pole Peated Bourbon—84 points, $57
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Pepper-crusted burnt ends
Oppidan Smoke + Sea Bourbon—90 points, $40
Method: Finished in Islay whisky casks
Tastes like: Breakfast sausage with pancakes and maple syrup
J. Riddle Peated Bourbon—86 points, $45
Method: Peated malt
Tastes like: Cinnamon-dusted popcorn, charcoal-grilled beef franks


