Travel to Jerez, Porto, and Madeira: Where Wine And Whisky Meet

The most fun way to learn about whisky is to visit a distillery, particularly in a renowned place like Scotland or Kentucky. But whisky’s flavors also often take root in other parts of the world, notably the great wine regions that supply distillers with their casks. Fortified wines—wines to which a distilled spirit, usually brandy, has been added—in particular often play a starring role, with sherry being foremost, alongside port and madeira. All three offer their own distinctive flavors and have unique regions that are well worth exploring.

Plan a trip to Porto and the Douro Valley in northern Portugal, where the Douro River carves its way through rolling hills lined with terraced vineyards, making for a picturesque view that can be enjoyed from the river itself on scenic cruises, or from the winding roads above while driving through the region. The Douro Valley is such a beautiful spectacle that it’s been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The island of Madeira off Portugal’s southwestern coast would be a worthy destination even for those who might not indulge in its wine wares. Dramatic seaside cliffs and a range of topography await those with a penchant for hiking and strolls along its system of levadas (irrigation channels), charming old cities, and excellent cuisine. Or head to sunny southern Spain and the Andalucía region to visit Jerez, the home of sherry. The entire town seems to be shrouded in an invisible, perfumed cloud of sherry wine production thanks to its abundance of bodegas. It makes for a wholly unique and unforgettable sensory experience.

These destinations together are a seemingly small cross-section of the wine world that plays a major role in shaping many of the whiskies we enjoy. A visit to one or all three will elevate your knowledge and understanding, while also offering an unforgettable escape.

PORTUGAL

Porto and the Douro Valley

Portugal’s Douro Valley is the oldest regulated wine region in the world, officially dating to 1756. Many notable houses go back even further than that. For instance, Taylor’s Port (today part of The Fladgate Partnership, a venture including the Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca, Croft, and Krohn port houses, as well as several tourism initiatives under one roof ) was founded in 1692. The oldest remaining port house may be Kopke, founded in 1638. On the whole, Portugal has a greater share of its land covered by vineyards than any other country. Port wine is made from a blend of grapes, and many traditional practices are still followed, such as strict adherence to hand-picking and the annual foot stomping of the grapes during harvest season.

The main styles within port are ruby and tawny, and whisky drinkers will appreciate that the primary difference between them is their cask maturation. Ruby port can be aged in enormous wooden vats, or stainless steel tanks may be used to preserve its color and freshness, whereas tawny is aged in casks, and therefore tends to exhibit more wood and tannin characteristics.

The way these two styles are produced is also different. While ruby port itself is often young, the best ruby ports will be sold as vintage ports, with vintages released only in small percentages. Tawny port, meanwhile, is released predominantly with age statements.

Vintage port represents the pinnacle of the category. A tawny with an age statement is ready to drink upon bottling, whereas a vintage port may continue to improve and evolve in the bottle for years and decades to come. A colheita, meanwhile, is a vintage tawny, a rare sub-category and a mark of great quality as a result of its combination of cask aging and vintage selection.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE

Porto is a short one-hour flight from Lisbon, and its airport connects to other international locales as well, with flights from European gateways such as Paris, and even occasional flights from the U.S. From there, reaching the Douro Valley takes about an hour and a half by car.

WHERE TO STAY

The swanky The Yeatman Hotel offers a spectacular view of the city of Porto unfolding before it and is known for its high-end spa and outdoor pool. The property opened in 2010 and is another entity of The Fladgate Partnership, which helps ensure a deep selection of port is plentiful in its bars and restaurants.

WHAT TO DO, EAT, AND DRINK

At the Yeatman, visitors will be adjacent to the new World of Wine development, which encompasses numerous museums, restaurants, and galleries. Reserve a meal at 1828 or Mira Mira by Ricardo Costa, or, back at the hotel, dine at the Michelin-starred The Yeatman Gastronomic Restaurant. The Taylor Fladgate Cellars, where you can learn about the history of port production while touring a museum and one of its warehouses, are also located adjacent to the Yeatman, making it the ideal jumping-off point to explore Porto’s key attractions.

From here, take a drive down the Douro River and into the valley, where its terraced hillside vineyards compose a picturesque scene and there are scores of cellars and tasting rooms to explore. Stop at Quinta da Roeda, the home of Croft, located on more than a mile of Douro riverside with vines over 100 years old. It’s one of the most tourist-friendly destinations in the Douro. For a smaller, more boutique visit, stop at Quinta do Panascal.

SPAIN

Jerez

The story of sherry production is one of turning a single grape variety, Palomino fino, into an array of stylistic variations. It accounts for 95% of production, though moscatel and Pedro Ximénez are used to make sherry’s sweetest renditions, and the richness of the latter’s casks in particular play a prominent role in whisky finishing.

The key in sherry production is whether it’s aged under a layer of yeast known as flor, in a process called biological aging. Fino sherry is dry, and aged under flor for a minimum of 2 years, while amontillado begins under flor until the yeast is killed off and then finishes its maturation in oxidative conditions. Oloroso is aged from the start with no flor. Palo Cortado was originally an accident of production, but is now made intentionally, and has a profile between that of oloroso and amontillado.

Regardless of the style, sherry makes use of solera maturation. A solera system uses multiple tiers of casks to refill one another, with younger wines added to older barrels without ever entirely emptying the oldest row. Sherry is made between three towns in a region referred to as the “sherry triangle”—Sanlúcar de Barrameda, El Puerto de Santa María, and its epicenter, Jerez de la Frontera. It’s a small swath of land, with a drive between Jerez and Sanlúcar taking just 30 minutes. Manzanilla sherry features the same production method as fino, but must be made in Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE

Jerez is within easy access of Madrid, via a 75-minute flight or four-hour train. It’s also a short way from Seville, with an hour’s drive closing the gap between the two.

WHERE TO STAY

The 27-room Hotel Bodega Tio Pepe opened in the summer of 2020. The rooms look down upon the famed vineyard-covered alleyways of the González Byass bodegas on one side, and have a straight shot of the 17th-century Jerez de la Frontera Cathedral on the other.

WHAT TO DO, EAT, AND DRINK

The town of Jerez was built around the sherry industry, rather than vice versa, so its bodegas tend to be found among its quaint cobblestone streets, and the alluring aroma of maturing sherry wafts from one street to the next. González Byass, established in 1835, is the largest and most well-known producer and has the most robust set of visitor experiences.

Lustau is another large producer with a visitor center in the town of Jerez. Smaller bodegas should also be visited to get a true sense of the industry. Faustino González and Bodegas Cayetano del Pino y Cía are two recommended choices; be sure to contact either in advance to arrange for a private tour. Eating well is half the fun with a trip to Jerez. A few recommended choices to score a great meal include La Carboná, La Cruz Blanca, and Albores.

PORTUGAL

Madeira

Madeira is known for its unique maturation process, involving the purposeful oxidation and heating of the wine in the barrel, the latter of which is performed either via an artificial process known as estufagem, or a natural and lengthier warehousing known as canteiro. Across styles, madeira’s signature flavors are the result of oxidation and heating. While estufagem is only used for younger wines made from the Tinta Negra grape, this is the bulk of madeira production. Higher quality madeira wines tend to be made with four grapes, each representative of a given style defined by its relative sweetness: Malvasia (or Malmsey) is sweet, Boal is medium sweet, Verdelho is medium dry, and Sercial is dry, though different producers showcase signature characteristics across each style. Madeira may be released as a vintage or with an age statement, and vintages are considered the premier offerings.

IF YOU GO

GETTING THERE

While part of Portuguese territory, the island of Madeira is in the Atlantic, about 600 miles southwest of Portugal. It’s accessible via a 90-minute flight from Lisbon.

WHERE TO STAY

Funchal is Madeira’s capital, and several madeira houses have visitor centers within the old quarter, making it the most convenient option for a stay. The historic Reid’s Palace Hotel offers luxury lodging at a private perch atop a dramatic clifftop, with walking access into town. The bar is well-stocked with vintage madeira, and the hotel’s swimming pools and ocean access make for idyllic places to relax after a day of tasting and touring.

WHAT TO DO, EAT, AND DRINK

Blandy’s, founded in 1811, is the largest producer of madeira, with a house style that is definitive to many drinkers. With a central visitor center and a number of tour options, it’s a logical start.

Also in Funchal is H.M. Borges, a producer established in 1877 and run by fourth-generation owner Helena Borges Fontes. “We all do madeira wine, but in a different way,” she says, with her house striving for balance. Another major producer worth visiting is Barbeito, located outside of town. Founded in 1946, its wines are said to display freshness and elegance.

For an indulgent dinner in Funchal, consider Audax, with a tasting menu of traditional Madeiran dishes served in avant-garde formats. A more casual outing focused on grilled fare and Mediterranean flavors can be found at Avista.