Hearty, Happy Campers

Whiskey lovers on a quest to get a bottle of Stranahan's Snowflake 2023 set up camp with tents and RVs in the distillery's parking lots, creating "Snowflake Village." PHOTO NIKKI RAE

Hearty, Happy Campers

June 12, 2024 –––––– Sean Evans, , , ,

Just after 12 a.m. on December 2nd, as temperatures dip below 25 degrees, the biting winter air hasn’t dampened the party in Stranahan’s Distillery parking lots in Denver. Dubbed “Snowflake Village,” it’s where more than 1,000 people have set up post in tents and RVs. All the revelers are here to purchase a bottle of the limited-edition 2023 Snowflake single malt release, a distillery-only offering that will go on sale first thing the next morning.

In this frigid setting, pockets of Stranahan’s superfans, all bundled to the hilt in winter garb, roast marshmallows on open fires just outside a giant (inflatable) igloo, as a stream of musicians rotates through the igloo’s stage. The line for the official Stranahan’s bar, nestled in a corner of the igloo, is more than a dozen deep, though many denizens are swapping flasks containing past Snowflake releases, among other whiskies. A quartet of food trucks has ceased serving, so camping grills are firing up, the inviting aroma of burgers and hot dogs wafting through the masses.

“We went to bed around 3 a.m.,” says John David Henson, a 53 year old salesman from Carbondale, Colorado, as he waits in line at 7 a.m. A mite bleary-eyed, Henson wouldn’t change a thing. “The point of camping out for whiskey is the community. We had so much fun, partying all night,” he says. “My friends are flabbergasted that I’d drive three hours to smell concrete for two days while freezing, but I love it.”

Henson has been camping out for Snowflake releases since 2016, his initial interest piqued by the notion of obtaining a hard-to-find whiskey. Back then, he didn’t care what was in the bottle, but “as my palate has gotten better, I cherish these. You can have your Pappy, which I do, but the Snowflakes are better.”

Whether at a favorite retailer or a distillery, one common thread is seen on all these all-night lines: camaraderie.

The notion of camping out for whiskey isn’t a novel one; mammoth distillers such as Buffalo Trace and Heaven Hill would see thousands of fans take over parking lots, awaiting rare and distillery-only bottles. But many distilleries scale back these events, prohibiting camping and instead opting for lotteries. Distilleries with annual release events, like Stranahan’s, Garrison Brothers, and Woodinville, are enjoying steadily growing attendance, taking the celebrations to new heights.

Those heights are literal for Garrison Brothers, a Hye, Texas distillery; each annual Cowboy bourbon release sees two mega-fans arrive via helicopter, according to chief marketing officer Rob Cordes. “We’re a working 68-acre ranch, so these guys fly over, land somewhere, and try to jump the line,” Cordes chuckles, adding this is not a welcome move. (Verbiage dissuading aircraft landings now appears on the company’s website.)

For Garrison Brothers, the demand for its iconic Cowboy release—combined with 2017 advancements in Texas law allowing for direct-to-consumer sales—holding back 1,000 bottles for purchase at the distillery ahead of the retail release, and making a day-long affair seemed like a good strategy. “By 5 a.m. [on release day], the queue is a couple miles long,” Cordes says. “As a marketing guy, I couldn’t [generate this interest] if I set out to. That it happens organically is mind-blowing.”

All Garrison Brothers Cowboy expressions utilize the same mashbill, the crux of its small batch bourbon: 74% corn, 15% soft red winter wheat, and 11% barley, all grown in Texas. (This year’s Cowboy clocked in at 140.9 proof!) A number of smaller-run experimental expressions also launch via release-day events, including Honeydew, an 80-proof 4 year old bourbon infused with Texas honey, or Lady Bird, a honey-infused, cognac-finished bourbon (at 114 proof ). “We release the details about the expressions a month prior,” Cordes says, noting it helps spike interest.

Likewise, Woodinville Whiskey in Washington slowly drips out expression details a month before its Harvest Release event. This year’s offering, a 5 year old 95-proof bourbon—from the flagship mashbill of 72% corn, 22% rye, and 6% malted barley—was finished in barrels that previously held ginja, a Portuguese liqueur that combines ginja berries with brandy. “It turned out fantastic,” says Woodinville co-founder Brett Carlile. “It tastes like a Manhattan in a bottle, with these great cherry notes.”

Woodinville opens its doors at 7 a.m. on this fall Saturday, though many of the 500-plus campers have been there as early as Wednesday night. Josh Walton, a 45 year old schoolteacher from Arlington, Washington, is Woodinville’s self-described number-one fan, attending each Harvest Release since they began in 2011.

“Last year, I was headed to bed and my wife said this may be the year to get the number-one bottle,” Walton recounts. “So I got back up and got to the distillery at 11:55 p.m. and I was indeed the first.” (Woodinville hand-numbers Harvest Release bottles 1 through 500.)

For Walton, the notion of waiting in line for hours early on a Saturday morning is less preferable than sleeping there for a few nights, with a tent and a cot. “My wife thinks I’m a little nuts,” he laughs. “And most of my friends are like, ‘Really?’ But some have joined, a few for multiple years.” Walton’s made friends while in line too, some industry-famous ones.

“Early on, I’d go early on Saturday morning, bring cigars, and wait in line,” Walton recalls. “A guy in a cowboy hat walked by and said [of my cigar], ‘Looks like a good breakfast.’ It was [late distilling legend] Dave Pickerell.” Walton shared a cigar, and Pickerell regaled him with tales of helping Carlile and his partner Orlin Sorensen get the distillery off the ground. “Every year after that, I’d always see Dave when I was in line and we’d chat and smoke,” Walton says.

ILLUSTRATION BY STEPHEN COLLINS

While being first isn’t paramount to Walton, it is for others. Take Eric Smith, a 39 year old concrete business owner from Oklahoma City, who got to Stranahan’s five days before the 2023 Snowflake release to claim the prized first position. “I’ve been in the top 10 every year,” Smith says of his six-year streak. Smith and crew rented an RV this year, noting the overall outlay is more than $1,200. “It’s always worth it. As long as they put on this event, I’ll definitely do it,” he says. Stranahan’s doesn’t disclose any tasting notes—this year’s blend is a mix of 16 barrels, all utilizing secondary finishes like mezcal and Islay scotch— so folks like Smith have no idea what they’re getting. “You just know it won’t be bad,” he grins with a shrug. “And it never is.”

Retail Unicorn Hunters

Liquor retailers have also noticed an uptick of die-hard customers braving the harsh wintry elements for unicorn bottles. “Around Christmas, I’ll do an “Elf’s Shelf,” which are all allocated bottles, like E.H. Taylor Barrel Proof or Weller Full Proof; things I got one bottle of and don’t want to raffle off,” says Rob Bralow, owner of Blue Streak Wine and Spirits in Long Island City, New York. Buyers aren’t told what’ll be available that day, but they can pick one bottle to purchase, all of which are around or just above suggested retail price (SRP). By 10 a.m., when Bralow opens his doors, there have been more than 30 people waiting, including one fellow in full Carhartt insulated coveralls who’d arrived at 5 a.m. “He was stoked to be first,” Bralow recalls.

At Manhattan’s Winfield-Flynn Wine and Spirits, one customer seeking Michter’s 10 year old rye turned up at 6 a.m., says owner Steve Kaiden, noting these are special one-off releases for in-store purchases only, at close to SRP. “I saw him on my security camera, waiting on this freezing January morning. When we got there at 11 a.m., the line was 10 people deep, but he got his bottle,” Kaiden says. What those people, particularly usually blasé New Yorkers, are willing to queue for surprises Kaiden. “Elijah Craig 18 year old doesn’t do it anymore,” he says. “Midwinter Night’s Dram [from High West] isn’t as sought after as it used to be, after the SRP went up a lot. Even Smoke Wagon demand, which was high in New York for a while, has died down.” What customers will wait for are bottles of Weller, Michter’s 10 year old, Elmer T. Lee, and other hard-to-find allocations.

Whether at a beloved store or a distillery, one common trait connects those who opt for protracted, oft-inclement waits: camaraderie. “I’ve seen the same people for the last 10 years,” says Walton. “We’re a family. People make food, often with Woodinville whiskey, and share bourbon brownies or pulled pork. Everyone kicks in a little something.”

Cordes shares that “our fans become family,” and in one case, literally: One Garrison Brothers release day attendee met her now-husband at the distillery. Bralow recalls that, during the height of COVID in the winter of 2021, groups of strangers waited together in a few cars, sheltering from the bitter cold. “They bonded, and later organized bottle shares and local bar visits together,” he adds.

Further fostering a familial vibe, owners often distribute goodies, like doughnuts and coffee, as Garrison Brothers does. “We hire a local cigar hand roller who makes cigars for purchase,” says Carlile, adding the leaves are dipped in Woodinville whiskey. “And we do special giveaways of beanies or other cold weather gear.” Bralow secured a whiskey sponsor, Bardstown Distillery, for last year’s Elf Shelf extravaganza, with an array of the brand’s potables and wearables slated to be given away.


ILLUSTRATION BY STEPHEN COLLINS

Woodinville uses this fervent community as a test bed for future core products. “Harvest Releases are like stepping stones,” Carlile says. Last year’s port-finished Harvest Release was so well received, it’s now a regularly available product.

As the doors to Stranahan’s open, and the first trickle of Snowflake campers streams in to collect their coveted bottle of this year’s release, co-founder Jess Graber looks on from a distance, drinking in the scene. Stranahan’s originated from Graber’s moonshining operation—a lark of a project merely to make whiskey for family and friends—nearly 20 years ago. Did Graber ever envision this volume of fans rabidly seeking his product? “Never in my wildest dreams,” he replies.

How To Become A Whiskey Camper: Dates and Details

Intrigued by the idea of camping out for whiskey? Want to visit a distillery for a future release day event? Here’s your cheat sheet and calendar.

Stranahan’s

WHERE Denver, Colorado
WHEN Early December
WHAT’S AVAILABLE If you’re early enough, that year’s Snowflake release. Tasting notes won’t be available ahead of time, but all Snowflakes are base Stranahan’s single malt that’s finished in an array of casks, ranging from port to rum to mezcal or Islay scotch. (This year’s featured a little bit of each of those.)
IS CAMPING ALLOWED? Yes, you can stay on the property overnight in a tent or an RV.

Garrison Brothers

WHERE Hye, Texas
WHEN Late September
WHAT’S AVAILABLE Cowboy bourbon, the brand’s most coveted expression. The 2023 release consisted of 9,600 bottles, with about 1,000 available at the distillery itself. A retail release, albeit limited, happens after the day of festivities. Check the website a month prior to learn tasting notes and other expression details.
IS CAMPING ALLOWED? It’s discouraged, as the route to the distillery isn’t really set up for folks to sleep in their cars or alongside the road itself. Show up around 5 a.m. to secure a spot and bottle.

Woodinville Whiskey

WHERE Woodinville, Washington
WHEN Early September
WHAT’S AVAILABLE The latest Harvest Release. The first 500 bottles are hand-numbered, but all bottles are only available at the distillery itself.
IS CAMPING ALLOWED? Yes, you can bring a tent and brave the elements if you wish. On particularly cold nights, the owners have brought out patio heaters or allowed campers to sleep inside the Woodinville warehouse.