Celebrating Scotch Whisky In Style

Scottish actor Sam Heughan, star of the television Outlander, joins the addressing of the haggis with the brandishing of a sword. PHOTOS TIM RYAN SMITH

Celebrating Scotch Whisky In Style

October 5, 2023 –––––– Julia Higgins, , , ,

Bagpipes, haggis, and drams, oh my! Some of the biggest names in scotch whisky gathered at a private members club in New York City on October 4 to toast Scotland’s national spirit. This was the second banquet of the U.S. chapter of the Keepers of the Quaich, the Edinburgh-based group that recognizes those who work, write, and otherwise spread the good word about scotch.

The Keepers of the Quaich (pronounced kwaik) was founded in 1988 as a celebration of Scottish culture, tradition, and whisky, and those who have contributed to its success. Marvin R. Shanken, editor and publisher of Whisky Advocate, was inducted into the Keepers at the group’s ceremony in that first year at Blair Castle in Scotland, and today serves as vice chair of the USA chapter.

At last night’s gala, Scotch whisky luminaries were aplenty, starting with the cocktail hour. There were rarefied pours from Laphroaig (Single Cask—The Jack Rose and Ian Hunter 33 year old) and Bowmore (30 year old and Aston Martin Masters’ Selection 22 year old); Johnnie Walker (Blue Label and Umami, a new Blue Label expression), Mortlach (2023 Special Release “The Katana’s Edge”), and Lagavulin (12 year old “The Ink of Legends” 2023 Special Release). There were also drams of The Macallan (Rare Cask) and Glenrothes (18 year old), and many, many more.
Haggis-InStory.jpgAfter cocktails, a formal dinner was kicked off by a procession of bagpipes, followed by remarks from Keepers of the Quaich USA co-chair Frank Coleman and co-chair Ed Pilkington of Diageo. A ceremony of bagpipes and a haggis followed soon thereafter, with Scotsman Andrew Weir giving a spirited recitation of “Address to a Haggis,” the famed poem written in 1787 by Scotland’s national poet Robert Burns. Addressing the haggis is a centuries-old tradition for Scots that started in 1801 to celebrate Burns’ life, following his untimely death at age 37. (Haggis is a thoroughly Scottish dish that consists of sheep offal thickened with oatmeal and flavored with onion, fat, and peppery spices; it’s often served with “neeps and tatties,” otherwise known as rutabaga and potatoes, as well as whisky, of course.) Midway through Weir’s address, Scottish actor Sam Heughan of “Outlander” fame joined the fray—Heughan was the evening’s guest of honor and keynote speaker, and also has a whisky brand of his own, The Sassenach blended scotch.

Addressing the haggis was one of numerous interludes throughout the evening, as a series of speakers took the floor for toasts. The first toast featured the presentation of a Scottish quaich. While we drink out of glasses today, centuries ago the quaich—a shallow, two-handled drinking vessel—was used by the Scots. The quaich’s two-handled design is often seen as a symbol of fellowship and trust, and has earned it the name “Cup of Friendship.”
20231004_1354.jpgPilkington and vice chair Wayne Chaplin (also president and CEO of distribution giant Southern Glazer's Wine & Spirits) then gave a toast to the scotch industry, citing its growth and staggering volume numbers. “Scottish culture is a cornerstone of scotch whisky, and we are delighted to keep the storied traditions alive with the annual Keepers of the Quaich USA events,” said Pilkington.

The remarks were followed by a toast to Scotland from Chris Thomson, head of Scottish Government in the USA, and later, a charitable presentation from Paul Ross, CEO of Edrington America, and Rory Hedderly, head of business development at the Entrepreneurial Scotland Foundation, who outlined the evening’s beneficiary—the Entrepreneurial Scotland Foundation. Heughan, introduced by chapter secretary and senior director of premium seed brands marketing at Beam Suntory Kathleen DiBenedetto, then gave a spirited keynote address. As the night wound down, Coleman took to the podium once more to recognize leaders of the industry, and finally, Dewar’s scotch whisky vice president Brian Cox made the closing remarks.

The Keepers induct new members at ceremonies held in spring and fall, and only at Blair Castle in Scotland. To qualify, potential new Keepers must have worked in scotch whisky for a minimum of seven years, and must be recommended to the society by at least two existing members.