Fall 2023 Editors' Choice: McCarthy's, Hemingway, Westland, and More

From each issue of Whisky Advocate, the editors select whiskies they consider to be the most impressive, based on score, price, and availability. From the Fall 2023 issue, we've selected this honor roll. Four of the Editors’ Choice selections this time around are American single malts, three are scotch whiskies, and two are ryes.

95 McCarthy’s 6 year old Oloroso Cask Finished American Single Malt (2023 Limited Release), 56%, $120
Yet another 6 year old from McCarthy’s single malt from Hood River Distillers in Oregon, this one finished in oloroso sherry casks. Lots of smoke on the nose: smoked meat, barbecue, and sooty charcoal aromas reminiscent of Laphroaig. On the palate, more smoke but with some fruit notes of apple, cherry, and orange, along with bitter chocolate and charcoal embers, all wrapped in beautiful campfire smoke.

94 Santa Fe Colkegan Cask Strength Small Batch American Single Malt (BBL98), 59%, $80
This offers aromas of sweet smoke, grape, and beautiful mesquite smokiness. The palate leads with sweet citrus and more campfire along with some jammy dark berry notes. It’s thick, rich, and delicious, with layers of complex flavors. The finish is superbly long and with great rolling combinations of fruit and woodfire. This one is excellent, with an array of notes to savor and contemplate. Smoke fans will love it.

94 Virginia Distillery Co. Courage & Conviction American Single Malt, 46%, $75
An austere note of minerality and mint on the nose, with citrus notes of grapefruit and lime followed by marshmallow and vanilla ice cream. It’s very delicate on the palate but not lacking in complexity, with torched crème brûlée, dark berries, more vanilla, and hints of char, all accented by chile pepper. A long finish offers more lime, light smoke, and bitter coffee Very elegant and easy to sip and savor.

93 Hemingway Signature Edition Rye, 51%, $80
Created by entrepreneur Steve Groth and 7th generation master distiller Ron Call and his two sons Jacob and Clayton, this Kentucky company focuses on rye rather than bourbon. The nose on this expression offers fresh rye grain and sweet notes of vanilla frosting, followed by a palate that’s creamy, with flavorful red berries and lemony brightness. On the finish, sweetness is kept in check by oak and spice. It’s not super-spicy, but smooth and easy, and a delicious, lovely sipper.

93 Isle of Rasaay Scotch Single Malt, 46.4%, $75
Sweet ripe bananas and sliced apples, with whiffs of bonfire smoke and maritime notes of seashells and an old wooden rowboat, then chalkiness on the nose. Honeyed and silky on the palate, with sweet peaches and spice, and darker fruit notes of blueberry compote. It’s a hot one, though not overly so. The finish is chocolaty and spicy, with good length. This is a hearty scotch with great balance and subtlety.

93 Pinhook 7 year old Vertical Series Tiz Rye Time, 52.56%, $80
The fourth of 12 planned releases in Pinhook’s Vertical Series, Tiz Rye admirably balances elegance and power. The nose is somewhat restrained, with dark chocolate and sweet spearmint blending like an Andes mint before getting punchier on the palate. Oak, barrel char, cinnamon-raisin bread, and spiced apples are packed into every sip, with each layer vying to come out on top. The finish amps up the herbal quality and brings in a numbing note, akin to Sichuan peppercorns.

93 Westland Colere 3rd Edition American Single Malt, 50%, $150
The nose is mellow and slightly smoky, confectionary powder, lemon peel, ripe melon, and layered sweetness. On the palate, it’s sweet, almost syrupy, but balanced by heat and lots of spice. The finish is mid-length with light candle wax, light smoke, flavorful grain, vanilla, and melon fruitiness. A Sauternes-like sweetness that sometimes teeters toward being too much, but is checked beautifully by its spice, complexity, and balance.

91 Aberfeldy 15 year old (Batch 2922/B) Scotch Single Malt, 43%, $70
Fruit greets the nose with fresh melon, sliced pear, and a hint of apricot marmalade. Eventually, vanilla pound cake, cinnamon stick, and tiramisu enter the picture. A decadent palate deliciously weaves together honey, just-ripe raspberries, cacao, and a dash of white pepper, making for a rich and winding ride. The finish goes on and on, with a squeeze of lemon and stewed pear capping it all off.

91 Glen Scotia 11 year old Lightly Peated White Port Cask (Campbeltown Malts Festival 2023 release), 54.7%, $80
A whisky finished in white port hogsheads for 12 months is a rare sight, and the Campbeltown saltiness really plays off the orchard fruit sweetness. Maritime notes, with light smoke, florals, salted nuts, ground pepper, and ground coriander on the nose, then flavors of green apple, spice, salted caramel, malt, vanilla toffee, and spicy peat smoke. The high strength is noticeable, so add a splash of water.