Fall 2023 Ratings and Reviews: A Selection of World Whiskies
October 12, 2023 –––––– Whisky Advocate
With the nearly constant flow of new whiskies from the U.S. Scotland, Ireland, and at times Japan, we try not to overlook whiskies from less high-profile places like continental Europe, Australia, India, and others. While they’re often seen in only small volumes here in the U.S., some are making top-flight whiskies that are well worth exploring. Here are a few expressions from whisky makers in France, Austria, Poland, Lebanon, and Australia, all reviewed in full in our Fall 2023 issue.
92 Riachi Distillery Athyr Empire, 55%, $140
This Lebanon-based producer is better known for its wines, arak, and liqueurs. Winemaker and master distiller Roy Riachi began making whisky in 2013 and launched his first release in 2019. One point of fascination is that Athyr Empire is matured in 120-180 liter clay amphorae rather than wooden barrels. It's aged 6 years and has an Arthyr cedarwood finish. Tasting notes: Peppercorn, butterscotch, dark chocolate, and baking spices. Some heat, but a thick texture, with chocolate, root beer, and oak, followed by vanilla, earthiness, and chocolate torte on the finish.
92 Artesia Single Malt, 45%, $90
This French single malt is made by TOS, a small artisan distillery in Hautes-de France, the northernmost French province whose best-known coast cities are Calais and Dunkirk. TOS's founders began as brewers and started making whisky in 2017. This is an elegant, floral, and subtle single malt that makes for some joyful sipping. Tasting notes: potpourri, apple juice, honeyed grains, oak, and vanilla sweetness on the nose. Pineapple, mango, and pear on the palate, with subdued oak offering mild toasted bitterness. The finish is soft and light with mild oakiness.
91 Proof & Wood The Globe 8 year old Polish, 49.5%, $80
Connecticut-based whisky blender and bottler Proof and Wood founder and owner Dave Schmier offers a 100% rye Polish whisky aged more than 8 years in French and American oak, and then finished in Jamaica rum barrels. The Globe name is all about the broad international world of whisky, and all other things. Tasting Notes: Leather and cigars on the nose, stewed fruit, burnt toast, cinnamon spice, and cotton candy. Tempered and delicate, blueberry, vanilla cream, light char, and dark chocolate.
90 Ruotker’s Whiskey Ruediger II Lord’s Preserve, 43.3%, $75
From Riegersburg in southeastern Austria,, the Golles family’s operation also makes wine, fruit brandies and other products. This expression is composed of 5 to 10 year old Austrian whiskies made from corn, rye, wheat, barley, and spelt. Tasting notes: dough, demerara sugar, popcorn, rye bread, dunnage warehouse floor, and Brazil nuts on the nose. The palate offers stewed apple, brown sugar, oak, vanilla, honey, cinnamon, rye spices, and peanut brittle. An easy-sipping crowd pleaser.
90 Starward Ginger Beer Cask Finish No. 7, 48% $100
This Melbourne, Australia distiller matures its whiskies in ex-red wine barrels, and its ingredients are all sourced locally. This one is a combination of Starward’s Nova and Solera malts, finished for 12 months in French and American oak casks that previously held Starward’s own ginger beer. While #7 has sold out, Starward Ginger Beer Cask Finish is an annual release. Tasting notes: crystallized ginger, ginger root, lemongrass, chicory root, light vanilla, marshmallow, and grapefruit peel. Spicy ginger notes and stewed fruits on the palate, shredded ginger root, vanilla, citrus peel, toffee, almond, and dark chocolate.
