Review: Hibiki 40 Year Old, House of Suntory's Oldest Ever Blend

The House of Suntory has announced the release of the highly limited (400 bottles worldwide) Hibiki 40 year old, the vision of chief blender Shinji Fukuyo. The whisky showcases the art of blending using just five carefully selected whisky styles from three Japanese distilleries, matured for over 40 years.

The blend contains Yamazaki matured in three different oak cask types. The white oak casks were filled in 1978 and 1983, and these components contribute antique notes, pleasing creaminess, and delicate fruit flavors. Yamazaki distilled in 1980 and matured in Spanish oak casks that bring intense dried fruit flavors and astringency, so chief blender Shinji Fukuyo used it sparingly to add depth, complexity, and texture. The mizunara oak casks contain Yamazaki distillate from 1983 which add intensity, richness, and a distinct Japanese character with its aromatic spiciness, incense, and its ability to add textural elements to the mouthfeel. From Suntory's other single malt whisky distillery comes lightly peated Hakushu, distilled in its direct-fired stills in 1981. This brings fruity and herbal notes to the blend, as the peat has softened over time. Finally, the blend contains grain whiskies from Chita Distillery distilled in 1979 and 1981, which add sweet notes of jasmine and lychee and contribute to the long lingering finish, and help to balance the mizunara notes.

The whisky is presented in a 30-faceted bottle by Kagami Crystal, supplier to the Japanese Imperial family. It is decorated with traditional Japanese maki-e using gold lacquer and mother of pearl inlay. The 12-sided outer box is made of 12 varieties of Japanese wood, and is decorated with delicate flowers and grasses to represent Japan’s changing seasons and the spirit of Hibiki, which honors the harmony between nature and the Japanese people.

Our Fall issue has a comprehensive guide to the great whiskies of Japan. Hibiki 40 year old sits atop the House of Suntory’s Hibiki range which includes a core lineup of the 90-point Japanese Harmony, the 93-point 21 year old, and the 95-point 30 year old, with limited editions including 90-point 2021 Japanese Harmony, the Blossom Harmony (93 points), and the 96-point 21 year old Anniversary Edition.

96 points – Hibiki 40 year old, 43%, $35,000

Aromatic and sensual on the nose, with jasmine, golden sultana, dried apricot, waxed lemon, white pepper, double cream, and light notes of incense and sandalwood. The smooth palate pops with incredibly focused bursts of citrus. It is honey-drizzled, with lemon and dried apricot, the mizunara oak notes playing out with ripe fig, latte, and vanilla custard. The lengthy finish is smooth and becomes drier, replete with pleasing spices.