Photo by Jeff Harris
Koji whiskies are essentially barrel-aged shochus, typically made from locally grown rice or unmalted barley. They’re produced in Kyushu, southernmost of the five main islands that make up Japan. Koji is a type of mold that’s a catalyst for fermentation under the right conditions. The base spirit is usually single-distilled in stainless steel, often by a process called vacuum distillation, which lowers the boiling point. The spirit comes off the still at 42–45%, and koji whisky quickly takes on the flavors of the chosen cask as it matures, whether it’s a sherry, sakura, or Islay cask. A very similar drink is awamori, made from Indica rice on the distant island of Okinawa.
The U.S. is the only country in the world—including Japan—where koji and awamori are classified as whiskies. It’s an anomaly that has developed a cult following here. This fandom has been created by Chris Udhe of California-based importer ImpEx Beverages Inc., who is so involved he actually became the leading blender for two top brands, Ohishi and Fukano, working in close partnership with those family-run distilleries.
KOJI WHISKIES TO TRY
96 points - Hakata 16 year old Sherry Cask, 42%, $150
Seville orange, milk chocolate, barley, fresh walnut, ground ginger, and citrus oil
93 Fukano Edition No. 2333, 41.6%, $95
Delicate florals, grapefruit peel, lime zest, vanilla ice cream, candied orange, and soft spices
92 Ikikko 8 year old Sherry Cask, 42%, $100
Wood spice, citrus peel, floral blossoms, cardamon, dried fruit, egg custard, and cocoa
92 Ohishi Islay Cask Finish, 42.7%, $80
Earthy peat, lemon, Nutella, chocolate brownie, dates, and spicy peppercorns
91 Takamine 8 year old, 40.3%, $100
Lemon curd, candy hearts, grapefruit peel oil, tangy orange, vanilla cream, and butterscotch
