The mash filter at InchDairnie, one of the pieces of equipment that enable the Lowlands distiller to process rye.
What’s a hot trend in scotch whisky? Well, believe it or not, it’s rye. At least 10 scotch whisky distilleries are laying down rye these days, with RyeLaw, the inaugural release from InchDairnie Distillery, becoming the latest addition to Scotland’s rye space.
InchDairnie opened in 2015 just outside the Lowlands town of Glenrothes in Fife (not to be confused with Glenrothes Distillery on Speyside). InchDairnie partners with farmers within the boundaries of Fife to grow rye and barley, and the distillery is equipped with a hammer mill, mash conversion vessel, and a mash filter to handle rye, oats, and wheat, which are beyond the scope of most single malt scotch distilleries. The distillery’s founder Ian Palmer researched the historical use of rye in scotch and talked with distillers in Kentucky and Canada about their experiences with rye before producing his own. RyeLaw, uses 53% malted rye and 47% malted barley and was double distilled in 2017 using a wash still and Lomond still, and then aged in new charred American oak casks.
All distillates made in Scotland from a mix of rye, malted barley, and other grains are regarded as grain whiskies under the regulations, but so far, distillers have chosen to emulate their U.S. counterparts by including a minimum of 51% rye. Diageo trialed rye whisky making at its pilot distillery in Leven before commencing full-scale production. Pilot distillery manager Richard Cowley says his experiments with rye were inspired by his brewing background. “There’s a natural curiosity to ask what happens if we introduce rye to the mashbill, to find out if it carries through into the final spirit.” The blenders were also eager to join the hunt for new and distinctive flavors.
Johnnie Walker High Rye was the creation of George Harper, whisky specialist and master blender for Roe & Co, and Craig Wallace, head of whisky innovation and master blender for Buchanan’s. Harper explains the difference between the two ryes in the blend, “First, we used a rye produced at Cameronbridge, which has got that big punchy spiciness more akin to an American-style rye, and then a Teaninich rye, so you’re getting the traditional light, fruity, grassy Teaninich character as well as the rye spiciness, which work really nicely together.” Diageo uses malted rye at Teaninich and unmalted rye at its grain sites. “We’ve actually got a higher percentage of rye inclusion than 51% at the grain distillery,” adds Wallace. The blenders found that rye worked well with a little smoke, paired with the fresh fruit notes in Cardhu and Clynelish, and the full mouthfeel helped carry the sweet vanilla accents from other whiskies.
Most traditional distilleries in Scotland cannot easily distill rye whisky, as it requires equipment that the majority of them lack. Arbikie Distillery was built to process all types of raw materials that they grow themselves. “Everything starts on the farm for us,” says distillery manager Kirsty Black. “Rye is a really good crop to grow, and it’s good for the rotation on the farm.” Black notes that most people couldn’t distinguish if a single grain whisky was made from wheat or corn, but rye is different. The rye used in Arbikie is unmalted and never leaves the farm, which Black says helps the flavors of the grain to shine without having to alter it by kilning. Arbikie’s recipe uses 60% unmalted rye, a higher percentage than InchDairnie’s RyeLaw or Teaninich produces, as it’s an all-grains-in process.
“It’s an old way of distilling whisky,” Black explains, as distilling on the grain is not the norm in Scotland, “but it’s amazing the different complexity of flavors and oiliness you can get out of the rye distilled in a pot still.” Black runs a portion of the rye through part of its column still, maturing the distillates separately before blending. Rye lends itself to finishing, and Black has been delighted with the flavors derived from armagnac and Jamaican rum casks to date, with more experiments maturing. Meanwhile, Arbikie is refilling its used rye casks to mature its single malt whisky for future release, ensuring that Scotland’s rye revolution keeps on rolling.
Scotch Ryes To Try
92 Arbikie Highland Rye 1794, 48%, $130
Cinnamon swirls, flaked chocolate, apricot, and caramel popcorn
92 InchDairnie RyeLaw, 46.3%, $140
Vanilla sweetness, soft caramel, peppermint, and rye spices
87 Johnnie Walker High Rye, 45%, $35
Graham cracker, toasted-grain bread, vanilla, and spice
