It’s the time of year when foliage nears its peak—and so does bourbon. Later this month, Buffalo Trace’s annual release of its Antique Collection will hit shelves, well, in theory anyway. The bourbons and ryes in this limited-release collection are among the most sought-after by drinkers and collectors, so in the unlikely event you spot one at retail price, or even close to it, make the purchase and thank your lucky stars.
These expressions within the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection (BTAC) generally remain the same each year, but what does vary is the age and in some cases the proof of the whiskey. Launched in 2000, the BTAC started with just three expressions (Sazerac 18 year old, Eagle Rare 17 year old, and Weller 19 year old) and in 2005 six bottlings were released (Sazerac, Eagle Rare, W.L. Weller, and three variations of George T. Stagg). Since then, it’s been holding steady at a five-bottle collection—with the exception of 2021, when George T. Stagg was omitted because the barrels did not meet the distillery’s standards. Each of the BTAC bottlings is sold individually at a suggested retail price (SRP) of $125, up from the $100 SRP of previous years.
2023 Eagle Rare 17 year old, 50.5%
This year marks the oldest release of this bourbon in its 23-year history in the BTAC. While the age is stated as 17 years old, that indicates the minimum age the whiskey can be before bottling. Each year the age of Eagle Rare varies, this year it’s 19 years and 3 months old. Buffalo Trace reps share they’ll never update the age, even as the distillate eclipses 17 years. At 101 proof, this hails from mashbill one, which includes a bit of rye, and you can detect the familiar baking spice that accompanies rye on the nose. Despite the extra time in the barrel, it doesn’t have a wild amount of tannins. The first taste will bring notes of caramel, then into a bright pop of citrus, and then a tobacco-rye finish. A second sip will unlock a subtle hit of cherry pie in the mid-palate. It’s quite a delicious pour.
2023 George T. Stagg, 67.5%
At a whopping 135 proof, this bourbon is 15 years and 3 months old. Made with mashbill number one, it’s effectively Buffalo Trace bourbon that’s uncut and unfiltered, aged for an additional six years. It’s got a terrific nose, arguably the deepest and most complex of the entire 2023 BTAC lineup. Rich notes of dessert chocolate meld with some red fruits. It’s big and earthy at first sip, due to that high proof. It blows up quickly in your mouth, bringing a bit of orange zest first, then moves into a tobacco finish. A drop of water opens up the dram, giving more access to those dark chocolate notes. The long finish is incredibly pleasing.
2023 Sazerac 18 year old, 45%
This bottling contains rye distilled between the fall of 2004 and spring of 2005. Sazarac’s rye is a low-rye, lovingly called “barely-legal rye” by brand representatives; a rye for bourbon drinkers. It’s the same mashbill as the core Sazarac rye offering, simply aged for another 12 years. On the nose, there’s an abundance of citrus notes, clove, and licorice. But it’s remarkably balanced, thanks to that extra decade-plus in oak. The first sip is a citrus bomb, with orange coming to the fore quickly. It mellows nicely, thanks to its modest 90 proof, and finishes with a pop of mint. There’s more spearmint in the 2023 than the 2022 release, and of course, plenty of rye spice, though it doesn’t smack you in the mouth with pepper. Sazarac’s rye is a low rye, lovingly called “barely legal rye” by the distillery team.
2023 Thomas H. Handy, 62.45%
This barrel-strength rye is comprised of barrels that aged more than six years. Don’t sleep on the low age statement; this powerhouse packs a ton of flavor. It’s essentially uncut and unfiltered Sazarac rye, and the trademark rye wallops your nostrils on the first whiff. At 124.9 proof, it’s definitely hot, at first sip, but the flavor explosion quickly overtakes the proof. There are traces of mint, honey, marmalade, and more. A second sip reveals a bit of spearmint, and the nose shifts to more of an herbal tea the longer it sits in your glass.
2023 William Larue Weller, 66.8%
This wheated bourbon was distilled in the spring of 2011. Uncut and unfiltered, it's around 12 years old, though it’s not proofed down like the core line product, Weller 12 year old. This has the sweetest nose of all the BTAC offerings, and the soft notes of salted caramel and vanilla belie the 133.6 proof. It’s remarkably mellow in the mouth, too, though there’s a little proof punch towards the end of your sip. Deep and rich, you’ll get baked cherries, plenty of vanilla, and caramel when the liquid first meets your tongue. It finishes long and warm, with a fair amount of chocolate lingering.
