An aerial view of Nc'nean Distillery.
Scotch whisky is typically associated with all things traditional: in the whisky lover’s eye, new craft distilleries are in the United States, or Ireland, or somewhere else. But Scotland has more than its share of emerging new whisky makers, and distilleries opening over the past decade have been releasing their products. They are starting to become fixtures in the whisky landscape.
One of those is Nc’nean Distillery, whose founder Annabel Thomas is a former executive at global consulting firm Bain & Co. who left her career in 2012 to start Nc’nean on her parents’ farm in Scotland, on the far west coast just across the water from the Isle of Mull. Thomas’ approach is centered on making 100% organic whisky, focusing on sustainability. Her distillation philosophy is spirit-forward, concentrating on creating flavorful new make instead of relying on cask selection. Fermentation and yeast selection, which she feels is overlooked by some producers, are a big focus.
Nc’nean’s flagship single malt Nc’nean Organic was introduced in the U.S. last September and reviewed by Whisky Advocate in our Winter 2023 issue, scoring 90 points. This year has seen three new whiskies thus far from Nc’nean, whose tasting notes and scores are shown below. All scored extremely well, within a range of 92 and 94 points.
The first is AON, a first-fill bourbon aged single cask single malt that was bottled at cask strength, a U.S.-exclusive with just 244 bottles released. The second is Quiet Rebels Gordon, named for distillery manager Gordon Wood (the team calls itself the Quiet Rebels) that had 8,688 bottles available globally, with 630 bottles coming to the U.S. The third whisky is The Huntress, a limited seasonal release of 6,100 bottles globally and 630 bottles for the U.S. that will likely be back next year. (The flagship Nc'nean Organic started with its release of just 1,260 bottles last fall, but it's a permanent expression that can still be found, and there will be more of it.)
Nc’nean’s capacity is at 100,000 liters of pure alcohol annually—tiny compared to the big single malt players but big enough to export and bring product to market with reasonable distribution. So while the releases thus far have been small, they're well worth seeking out, and we’ll be seeing much more from this rising star going forward.
94 Nc’nean AON First Fill Bourbon Single Cask (No. 18-642), 60.4%, $130
A symphony of stone fruit, apples, and pears greets the nose: Golden Delicious apple skin, apple tart, and juicy pear are well matched with vanilla soft serve and a hint of anise. On the palate, the texture is fantastic, offering up a wonderfully creamy mouthfeel that’s accented by flavors of juicy apricot, raw honey, and sugar cookie. The finish is spiced and spicy—think chocolate-covered chiles and brown sugar Pop-Tart. Water, while not needed, yields yogurt pretzels and more fruit.—Julia Higgins
93 Nc’nean Quiet Rebels Gordon, 48.5%, $110
The Quiet Rebels series celebrates the distillery’s employees. The recipe for this release comes from Gordon Wood, the distillery’s manager since its inception. Mouth-watering aromas of wild raspberry, candied citrus peel, plum, apple, and coriander seed. A glossy texture with strawberry, baked orange, creamy chocolate, allspice, crème brûlée, currant, and fig. The STR, sherry, and Rivesaltes casks used for aging the component whiskies create a luxuriously fruity finish with attractive glimpses of red wine.—Jonny McCormick
92 Nc’nean Huntress Orchard Cobbler, 48.5%, $120
Nc’nean’s two spirit runs mature at younger and older ages: This experimental whisky captures the switchover in recipes. Aromas of caraway seeds, rosemary, peppermint fondant cream, wild garlic leaves, honey, and white pepper. The palate serves up apple pie, cherry tart, baked plum, Jaffa cakes, lime, and gentle spices. It has good body, a creamy texture, and plenty of juicy fruits, with a dry finish of peppermint tea, summer berries, and candied peel.—Jonny McCormick
