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Most people know that tequila and mezcal are both crafted from agave. Beyond that, the well of knowledge usually runs dry. A few pointers on the differences between these two types of spirits will help enhance your appreciation of mezcal, Mexico’s once-forgotten agave spirit whose popularity is now blooming.
Regulations require that only blue Weber agave be used for tequila. Around 30 varieties can be used for mezcal, but there are just a handful that are typically used. The denominations of origin for each also specify different Mexican states where they can legally be grown. So although these two spirits are both agave-based, the differences are significant.
Once the agave has been harvested and the leaves removed to reveal the pine cone-shaped heart or piña, it’s cooked and crushed to convert its starches into more readily fermentable sugars. The piña for tequila is typically cooked in steam, whereas for mezcal it is buried and cooked using wood and smoke.
For generations of American drinkers, mezcal’s smokiness set it apart from tequila. These days, as mezcal finds itself on the brink of explosive popularity, aspects of its character beyond smoke are being leveraged by producers.
“Mezcal has a huge variety of flavors and sensory experiences to offer,” explains Luis Niño de Rivera, co-founder of Mezcal Amarás. “The vast options of agaves—in the largest extension of denomination of origin in the world—and different ways of processing can take years of exploring and discovering everything mezcal offers. From enjoying it neat to pairing it with food or having fun with a cocktail, each mezcal expression can bring new frontiers.”
Top mezcal producers are increasingly focused on the character of the specific agaves—either as single-variety expressions or as blends. Amarás, for example, works primarily with the Cupreata and Espadín varieties, though they’re engaged in ongoing work with many others. Bozal, another top producer, bottles expressions from the Tobasiche, Cenizo, and Tepeztate varieties, among others. Del Maguey labels bottlings in their Village Series with the name of the place where the agave was grown. Terroir matters.
This all adds up to a range of possible mezcal expressions that is virtually endless. That makes it uniquely well-suited to pairing with a wide range of foods and adding deep complexity to cocktails.
Aside from smoke, mezcals can boast flavors of citrus, fresh herbs, hints of flowers, coffee, tobacco, and more. Hence it’s a natural pairing partner for everything from deeply complex mole sauces and bright guacamole to smoked meats, roasted poultry, and fresh vegetables. In other words, its utility isn’t limited to any one cuisine, set of ingredients, or style of cooking.
It’s just as versatile in cocktails. Selva, a cocktail bar in downtown Oaxaca, boasts a drinks program that makes delicious use of mezcal in several of its cocktails. Its namesake cocktail brings together Mezcal Los Danzantes joven with hoja santa, agave honey, lemon, quesillo, basil, juniper bitters, and poblano chile liqueur. The result is a drink that hits every flavor receptor on the tongue and sets the brain tingling.
Five Mezcals to Try
As mezcal continues to grow in popularity and prominence, American consumers will no doubt have access to more. Here are five that are worth seeking out now.
Bosscal Conejo, 42%, $100
Everything about this will challenge expectations: It includes local apples, and the vapors from the third distillation rise past and through the breast of a rabbit. It offers a vibrant and layered palate that ultimately delivers peppercorn-dusted mountain berries, with a hint of smoke alongside touches of menthol.
Bozal Mezcal Guías de Calabaza Sacrificio, 47%, $99
Unlike many sacrificio mezcals, this one has a vegetarian profile: Instead of the flavors of meat more typical of sacrificios, Bozal has incorporated pumpkin stems, plantains, and the herb chepiche. The result is bright and minty, with chamomile, spearmint, preserved lemons, and subtle smoke-tinged peppercorn spice.
Del Maguey San Luis Del Rio, 42%, $70
From one of the trailblazing brands in the high-end mezcal category, this expression is built on a spine of minerality and brininess, with orange pith, melon rind, and a nod in the direction of caramel-coated oranges. The finish rolls along with zippy peppercorn and jalapeño notes, plus a touch of fresh ginger.
Mezcal Amarás Cupreata Joven, 40.3%, $60
This showcases earthy notes of cigar tobacco, baseball-mitt leather, mashed pears, and subtle smoke, as well as a quiet sizzle of spice through the long, layered finish. The agave for this mezcal was grown in Tixtla, Guerrero for 13 years prior to being harvested. Also consider the Espadín expression, which leans more in the direction of candied orange peels, grilled apricots, and dried flowers.
The Producer Tepeztate Joven, 40.2%, $98
Before master distiller Celestino Sernas got his hands on the agave for this mezcal, it spent 16 years maturing in Santiago Matatlan, Oaxaca. The piñas were crushed beneath the weight of a round stone tahona, before being fermented in the open for nearly two weeks. The result is a spirit of both elegance and power, the citrus and fresh-herb notes are anchored by a sense of brininess that demands another sip. And then another.
