In February of 2019, hardly prime ice cream season, Häagen-Dazs introduced Spirits, a new collection that infuses alcohol—bourbon, rum, Irish cream liqueur, amaretto, and stout—into ice cream. What took them so long?“Our team, including the marketing and technical sides, try to keep up with trends,” explains Nestlé senior product scientist Aaron Butterworth. “With the Spirits line, there was definitely a trend toward pairing all sorts of alcohol with food, so it seemed that the time was right,” she adds.While flavors such as the creamy, vanilla-y, chocolaty Irish Cream Brownie and vanilla and maple-fueled Bourbon Vanilla Bean Truffle might seem like the most logical booze-inspired pairings in the world, development took considerable effort, says Butterworth.“We do these events we call ‘Flavor Camps,'” she explains. “Basically, we bring together all of our bases and a whole bunch of ingredients and our group of tasters literally sample all these different products and put them together.”These camps, which occur three or four times a year, are intense and fun, admits Butterworth, but they are also very much based on the science of taste. “We make pairings based more on complementary than contrasting flavors,” Butterworth says, “and we work with texture to make the best partnerships.”To illustrate this second point, she points to the Irish Cream Brownie ice cream, which has soft and decadent brownie pieces alongside a fudge that sets a little harder and so “cracks” when bitten. Combined with a salty note that contrasts with the sweet Irish cream, it creates complexity in the dessert.


