Review: Turning Up the Wheat With Bernheim Barrel Proof's Latest Release

Kentucky distiller Heaven Hill is no stranger to weaving wheat into its mashbills, with its wheated bourbons Old Fitzgerald and Larceny garnering large and loyal followings. Both whiskeys have a long history of impressive scores and have appeared on our Top 20 list, with Larceny Barrel Proof B520 winning Whisky of the Year honor in 2020. Heaven Hill also makes wheat whiskeys—which by rule must have at least 51% wheat in the mashbill, as opposed to wheated bourbons where wheat is simply a high component. Parker’s Heritage, the annual release in honor of late distiller Parker Beam that began in 2007, counts two wheat whiskeys in the series. But Heaven Hill’s signature wheat whiskey is Bernheim Original—a quiet one in a star-studded portfolio, but a whiskey you should get to know.

Introduced in 2005, Bernheim Original became the first widely available wheat whiskey since pre-Prohibition days. An early version of a Bernheim Barrel Proof was offered as part of an exclusive tasting for visitors of the Heaven Hill Bourbon Experience in Bardstown, but the first proper bottling of Barrel Proof wouldn’t be released until 2023, with the inaugural batch A223 hitting shelves last February. The barrel proof expression is a twice-yearly release; the “A” indicates the batch, while the next number shows the month and the final two digits show the year.

Barrel Proof uses the same mash bill as the core Bernheim Original— 51% wheat, 37% corn, and 12% malted barley—but it’s blended from barrels aged 7-9 years—older liquid than Bernheim Original, which is composed of 7 year old barrels.

This year’s first Barrel Proof edition was pulled from the barrel at 62.6% ABV, higher than the 59.4% ABV level in last year’s first batch, but it otherwise sticks closely to A223’s formula, with the same mashbill and age statement. The new batch’s proofing roughly puts it in the same ballpark as Larceny Barrel Proof, which typically orbits at around 63% ABV.

Bernheim Barrel Proof is currently available in limited quantities at retailers across the country, with a suggested retail price of $65. Heaven Hill only releases two batches of Bernheim Barrel Proof per year; if last year’s schedule is anything to go off, devotees can expect to see 2024’s second batch touch down sometime in September.

What Does Bernheim Barrel Proof A224 Taste Like?

As far as cask strength Heaven Hill bottlings go, Bernheim Barrel Proof A224 has some large shoes to fill: Elijah Craig Barrel Proof and Larceny Barrel Proof have each clinched one of our coveted Whisky of the Year awards for the distillery. Our tasting panel members got their hands on a bottle of Bernheim Barrel Proof A224, which appears to be a worthy contender. Their full thoughts are below:

Bernheim Original Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey (Batch A224) 62.6% $65

Lots of vanilla on the nose, some wood spice but mainly sweet vanilla aromas. The palate is powerful, but holds its high proof very well—nothing at all jagged or harsh about it—with flavors of baked apple, orange peel, musty aged oak, chocolate fudge, and vanilla. It truly excels with water, further unlocking all those flavors. Thick and rich overall, with layers of flavor and a surprisingly gentle profile.—David Fleming

Final Score: 94 points